Building a deck

 

Below is a summary of a range of issues that you will be considering when planning your decking structure.

Whether you plan to Build it Yourself (DIY Deck) or have one constructed for you we hope the following will be of use in your planning.

INITIAL PREPARATIONDecking to Dwelling UP - P7.jpg (60602 bytes)

1. Determine Location & Size -

Make sure the size you have measured provides the space you need. A good way is to consider the following issues:-

  • Pathways Entry from House

  • Entry on to Deck ie: from back yard etc.

  • Static Area’s Where a table and chairs may be situated

  • Storage area’s

  • Cooking Area's such as BBQ

  • Plant and other aesthetic items

2. Is it too big or too small -

After above considerations draw an initial plan so a budget and material list can be developed. Good idea is to relate the area considered back to a living or lounge room inside so you can relate to what size your measurements are. This will ensure your decking will deliver the size you require.

3. Size is Important -

Decking tends to provide a finite area so also give consider where your entering and exiting the deck. Remember the deck is only one part of your total project picture and it's got to have a budget to match your needs. Therefore consider existing paved area's, walkways and garden area's and decide if  they will be integrated with your deck area.

4.Shelter -

Providing either a roofed section or shaded sections to maximise your decking usage may be another consideration. Sun and wind can be to issues and either can make or break your ideal dream for usage from a deck. Many common solutions is to cover deck with a fixed roof such as Colorbond ® &/or Polycarbonate roofing. We recommend you consider obtaining reasonable light with reduction of heat to reap the full benefits from roofing your project The new Solar Smart Polycarbonates from Suntuf provide good light with significant heat reductions are highly recommended.

 Click for Solar Smart Brochure   

SolarSmart olours

5. Materials

As we constantly stress throughout our web site quality materials will deliver quality results.

Whilst we don't suggest only we supply quality materials, as there are many quality timber merchants, we do get many clients comments of their reactions to buying "cheap timber" after the event. Poor performance of timber can usually (but not always) be aligned to not ensuring the timber you get can deliver the outcome you seek year in year out. Here we try to run through the basics to consider.

  • Sub Floor -

     

    • A main issues to consider with any decking is the sub-floor. Simply, if the foundation below the decking is not correct then the performance of the deck will suffer. Spacing's between stumps, bearers and joists all equally have a bearing on the deck feeling solid and strong. The wider the deck, plus the amount of static load (Tables, Chairs, BBQ and the decking load itself plus the potential amount of people on the deck) all provide reasons to ensure your sub-floor is adequate to handle the usage envisaged. Reference to Australian Timber span tables should be consulted to provide the correct size your require for your requirements.

     

    • Treated Pine Dry F7 H3 is the perfect solution to most sub floor materials. Generally Green and Dry Hardwoods are not used due to durability (Victorian ash and Tasmanian oak for example), instability (movement and shrinkage for green hardwoods) and price for dry hardwoods particularly the durable categories' such as Merbau, Jarrah etc.

     

    • What size and Strength grade should I choose?: As long as a structurally graded Treated Pine of the correct size is selected for the purpose and span you require there are no major benefits achieved using hardwoods for sub-floor. We stock and recommend F7 grading as a basis of choosing timber of the minimum strength for decking. F5 timber is acceptable but spans etc., will need to be reduced due to the reduced strength of that grade.

    Note: We recommend (and we stock) H3 F7 Treated Pine manufactured by "Quality assured Producers". All timber with show Grading and treatment level on each piece. This is your guarantee that producer has followed the Australian Standards to produce timber that meets the Building code requirements. This is important to ensure the durability of treatment and strength requirements of your timber can deliver the results you require.

    BEWARE: JUST BECAUSE ITS THE RIGHT SIZE AND GREEN DOES NOT MEAN IT COMPLIES WITH THE CODES.

    Main problems with cheap timbers

  • Unsound knots - large holes

  • Twist, bowing and wrapping

  • Not correctly dried

  • Not graded to ensure is strength requirements are met.

  • No guarantee that is been properly treated

  • Decking -

     

    • Imported -Merbau has the reputation of over 50 years as the premium imported Hardwood decking material. With minimal protection Merbau is considered the best of the imported species. There are a range of other imported hardwoods such as Batu, Ulin, Yellow Balu and Kapur etc. available. Some attraction to these timbers are colour being a light brown colour rather than the red to dark red colour of Merbau. Correctly sealed and maintained these secondary timbers will offer a good performing deck however if these timber not maintained they will show weathering and durability problems reducing the life of your project.

     

    • Australian Hardwoods - There are a few quite worthy durable Australian species worth considering, particularly when a dark red decking is not your preference. Careful review of their performance, durability, maintenance requirements and length specification should be considered prior to purchase. The biggest consumer reaction with Australia Hardwood is the lack of good length averages (random specification normally starting as low as 0.9m with llength not much greater than 4.3m pack average around 2.4 - 2.7m where imported often around 3.3 to 3.6m) and no or minimal options to get set lengths.

     

    • Treated Pine 70& 90 x 19mm (dry after treatment and non CCA treated) can also make a very good budget deck. Ensuring that joist spacing are at least 450mm or less is important to reduce likelihood of the deck  feeling springy under foot. Other dimensions such as 70, 90 & 140 x 35mm may even provide a pleasant surprise as the performance and solid grounding under foot by using these slightly thicker Treated Pine timbers is noticeable. Price also will on some of these sizes may still be cheaper than using hardwoods so if considering Treated Pine the thick sizes may be a great choice.

     

  •  Handrails -

     

    • Today there are many types to chose from. Timber, Metal, Glass etc., Budget needs to be considered with your choice but it is very common that most decks will have some hand rail and its appearance will be critical to the visual outcome of your decking.

    see some handrails on our link here

SO YOU NEED HELP TO GET YOUR PROJECT GOING AND YOU WANT TO BUILD IT YOURSELF.

CONTACT US AT THE PROJECT CENTRE FOR A FREE DESIGN CONSULTATION

Plans and Permit Service at The Project Centre click to more information  

       A Member of Building Designers Association Victoria

Email to arrange a free design consultation at the Project Centre 

Selection of Material

A 1.5 meter grid system is typical for most decks. Actual grid size will dictate the size of your bearers and joists.

As discussed above, your gird should consider the recommended performance of each component. Further apart the stumps plus the height of the deck to ground = the more load per stump. This can change the size and possibility footing required per stump. This also same for both bearers and joists. The further they span and the wider apart they are the more load being exerted to each member.

Therefore there's not hard fast rule except to review each component relative to the other and review that against the span tables recommended.

The bottom-line is if you want to walk on a deck that "doesn't spring" under your feet then attention to spacing and appropriate sizing is your first consideration. Joist spacing between actual decking (ie: 450mm spacing) will more relate to the decking chosen.

Durability ;

This question is something that should be first on your list. With the each project and expected life of project should ensure selection of durable products will assist with getting the beat out of your deck and the greater the life of all components. Stablised Dry Treated Pine commonly found throughout Australia can provide a product with a project life of well above 10 to 15 years subject to regular maintenance. Water remains the main issue for timber performance but also sun, salt and wind plus water can provide serious weathering of timber if unprotected.

Softwoods : Treated Pine and Cypress Pine no greater than 450mm for 70 or 140mm

Hardwoods : Merbau, Batu, Australian hardwoods - joist spacing can increase for sizes such as 140 x 19 or 22mm

Summary

Durability of product, correctly specified timber sections for the gird chosen, properly fasten and constructed members plus regularly maintenance  will ensure your deck can provide a visually appealing area for many years.

The common thread with all building is the better the product used (as its supposed to be) the better the life of the product and your project will equal a lower over all cost to you and generally a more appealing visual result..

We note we recommend getting a professional plan prepared by a registered drafting company and permit will ensure you get the correct materials and permissions to build for your project.

 A typical materials may include the following timber:-

Below we provide general indicative suggestions for a 1.5 meter grid.

1. Support Stumps -

Usually 100 x 100 mm -if post is going into ground timber should be either a durable species such as Cypress Pine or Treated Pine H4 for in-ground usage (Treated Pine timber should be stamped or tagged showing treatment level being H4 and grade - for post minimum F5) or concrete stumps. Allow for 450 mm embedded in the ground. Oregon is not recommended in sub floor applications for outside decks.

Note:  We do note recommended Treated Pine sawn "wet" timber for any structural application. At the Project Centre we do not stock any Treated Pine posts due to poor performance of this end section. Our feeling is "if it twists and wraps in our yard then what is it going to do to your project"!

2. Bearers -

Most common is Treated Pine Dry F7 H3 90 x 35mm x (2)or 90 x 45 mm x(2 although other sizes are used depend upon span required. Using sizes such as 140 x 45 and 190 x 45mm are also considered particularly for front bearers.

3. Joists -

Again common size is 90 x 45mm used with Dry Treated Pine  F7 H3 the timber of choice. Normally joists are placed at 450 mm centers. Using sizes such as 140 x 45 and 190 x 45mm are also considered particularly when joist spans have increasing between bearers.

 

Photo of some Decking and Roofing Structures at The Project Centre - Narre Warren

SET OUT OF DECK

1. Post position -

Mark out positions of support posts based on a 1.5 Mt. grid system. If this does not conform to your overall size, make grid smaller rather than larger if using size indicated above. If bearer and joist span too greater distance, the deck will be too springy.

Use a string line and line level to ensure post height’s are the same. To ensure corners are square use the “3,4,5” method . Repeat this for all four corners and as a final check if possible, measure the two diagonals, if the deck is a perfect rectangle, these should be of equal length.

2. Ledger Bearer -

If deck is attached to home a ledger-bearer is attached to side of wall fixed at maximum 700mm interval’s with 10mm Dyna Bolts to brick wall or coach screws or bolts fixed into house bearers if timber wall. This method is common for deck below 1.5mtr height from ground. Above this height other methods will needed to be considered.

BUILDING THE DECK

To establish the correct position of bearers and joist’s mark down from the finished height of the deck, allowing for heights of decking, joist’s and bearers.APPLEYARD DECK - VERANDAH P4.JPG (191963 bytes)

Generally bearers will be placed on top of intermediate post and to side of end post (particularly if outer post come through deck).

If passing over post nail fasten using Galvanised Nails or batten screws.

If placed to side of posts use galvanised coach bolts (2 x 10 mm) through bearer and post to get a firm and solid hold. If joining bearers always do this at a post or over a stump

Note:  Always ensure bearers are level not only in themselves but also to other bearers within your project grid.

Use spirit levels to ensure the top of the joists are level and flat. Running string lines will also provide a means of ensuring deck sub-floor is level.

LAYING THE DECKING

It is common to have approx. 5 mm spacing between decking boards  This is to allow for expansion of your decking timbers. All boards should be joined at joists and staggering the joints provides for a stronger and more visually appealing deck.

Note: Always pre-drill the decking to avoid splitting unless using special decking screws that may elevates this requirement (check manufacturers specifications and instructions)

With any timber you will need to protect the timber from weathering from sun and rain. Although timber selected may be durable from rot and decay this still is required to be undertaken to ensure the surface of the timber remains protected ie: reduce incidence of splitting and maintaining is appearance etc.

WHEN TO  APPLY DECKING OIL : After a period of approx. 3 – 4 weeks decking stain preferably with an oil base should be applied. Ensure decking has be subject to wetting during this period.

This period is to allow the timber tannins to leach and the timber surface to dry to accept oil penetration. A colour can be applied to stain if required of use a clear or natural finish if preferred.

Note: Check with product instructions as to best method to apply, any surface preparation required and number of coats recommended.

NEED A QUOTE ON YOUR PROJECT!

The Project Centre stocks a large selection of quality timber, hardware and decking stains so check with our staff when ready to purchase your material to get the right advice and price for your project. 

EMAIL US TODAY WITH YOUR MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS

**Daily deliveries to:  Berwick - Narre Warren - Cranbourne - Hampton Park -  Hallam - Lynbrook - Skye - Lang Warren - Officer - Beaconsfield - Pakenham and surrounding area's. We can deliver to all areas Metro Melbourne and to East Gippsland and Phillip Island by arrangement.

** Country Victoria - we can deliver to any metro transport yard.

** delivery cost upon application

We stock and recommend the following: products to be considered when building Decking and Verandah Structures

We recommend you consult manufactures recommendations for the usage, application methods and performance of their products prior to using their products.

Making Projects Come Alive

SO YOU IF YOUR STILL WANTING TO DO IT YOURSELF OR NEED YOUR PROJECT PROFESSIONALLY  INSTALLED & NEED HELP TO GET YOUR PROJECT GOING .

CONTACT US AT THE PROJECT CENTRE FOR A FREE DESIGN CONSULTATION

Plans and Permit Service  click to more information  

       A Member of Building Designers Association Victoria

Email to arrange a free design consultation at the Project Centre 

Thinking for building a project please visit these other links on our web site

DIY Pergolas & Verandahs                

Government & Local Councils Links  

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Narre Warren, Victoria Australia

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